[Travel Diary] Urbex in the Kupari Complex

Abandoned places hold a strange power of attraction. Think of the village of Pripyat, frozen in time in the Chernobyl exclusion zone, or the Parisian catacombs, with their extensive network of damp galleries, secret rooms, ossuaries, sculpture and graffiti. People of all kinds are drawn to them, despite the evident dangers, from radiation overdose to claustrophobic panic. In allowing us to to run among the debris of civilisation, to hide

[Travel Diary] A week in Albania

As the minivan rattled its way towards Albania, winding through the last valleys of eastern Montenegro, I realised I knew nothing of the country I was about to enter. Dazed by an unsuccessful attempt at hitch-hiking which would have ended with sunstroke had I not given up mid-afternoon, I could think up anything else than Taken and its Albanians traffickers, stereotyped to the extreme in the service of vengeance. A